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BASS FISHING TIPS
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Circle
on Bass
A bevy of catching tips
By Homer Circle
Bassmaster,
March 2003
Little things can loom big in a day's go at
bass. Each of the following tidbits emerged from something that
added value to an outing. So, let Uncle Homer share these with you
in the hope that any one of them will pick up a sagging day.
- Pay close attention to your bass hooks. Be certain of two
things: 1) proper tempering, so a big bass can't straighten
one out; and 2) a point made needle-sharp by honing it until
the point will suspend from your thumbnail.
- Release bass to live on by being certain they will.
Exhaustion after a hard battle can be fatal unless you
properly revive each one. Hold in current with the bass' mouth
open to aerate gills. In still water, hold the mouth open and
move the bass in a circular pattern. When released, it should
swim away. If not, continue aeration until it can.
- To reduce line cost, fill your reel spool with any kind of
linear backing, and add only enough monofilament to reach 20
feet beyond your longest cast. At this line juncture, install
a strip of electrician tape and wind over it. Then, if you get
a real bad backlash, the line can't cut any deeper than the
tape for an easier unraveling.
- Don't try to outguess Mom Nature when it comes to weather.
If an electrical storm is brewing and blowing wind in your
direction, you can estimate how far away it is by counting
from the moment you see lightning until you hear thunder. Each
second represents about 1,100 feet, or about one-fifth of a
mile. Stay safe by leaving the water in plenty of time to
reach shelter.
- When a lure is so light it is difficult to reach a target,
let it hang down about a foot from your rod tip. This will
increase casting leverage to yield greater distance.
- What is the best weight fishing line to use? Here is a
simple guide: for 1/8 ounce lures, 4-pound test; 1/4 ounce,
6-pound test; 1/3 to 1/2 ounce, 10-pound test; upward of 1/2
ounce, 15-pound test. In weedy water, stay with the heaviest
line for maximum durability and strength.
- If your Texas rigged worm and bullet slide sinker aren't
catching bass from shoreline covers, try this: Reverse the
bullet sinker so that the flat rear becomes the leading edge.
Cast, let it sink to the bottom, and let the concave head
bulldoze "wet dust" from the bottom as you twitch it
along. This can trigger strikes from curious bass.
- Studies of bass by biologists using implanted radio
transmitters have proved that there are certain bass that
become wary of lures. But these can occasionally be coaxed
into hitting a lure if it appears unlike those it is
accustomed to.
So, try speed trolling. Give them a lure going faster than
anything they've ever seen. The best one I've found for this
is a lipless vibrator like a Sonic, or a Rat-L-Trap. Troll 10
to 15 mph, close to shoreline covers bordering dark water –
it can save an otherwise bassless day.
- There are those times when bigger bass follow your lure but
won't grab it. Try this tricky tactic: Have your fishing buddy
use a surface lure with spinners fore and aft. While he casts
into shoreline hangouts and slowly retrieves the surface lure,
you work a lizard just below it. It is possible that a bass
thinks the lizard is a predator stalking the surface lure, and
being distracted this way, the bass would not see another
predator preying on it. Give it a go; it has worked for ol'
Unc.
- When fishing in remote areas, always take along extra toilet
tissue for a shore chore. Using leaves may sound Daniel Booney,
but it is risky practice, because many leaves beside poison
ivy can cause a rash that will be both miserable and difficult
to treat.
- The popular white bass, pound for pound one of our toughest
battlers, is a descendent of the large striped bass.
Biologists crossed the two to create a new hybrid that some
call a whiper. The white bass is believed to have become
landlocked eons ago, and diminished in size over the ages.
It's one of my favorite bass.
- When taking a picture of buddies with a lunker bass, stand
close enough to show just the two most important items – the
catcher and the catch. This tells the story, and it eliminates
overexposures that come with automatic cameras reading the
brighter back lighting.
- The most accurate cast for easing lures into small bass
hangouts is an underhand cast. This is because your eyes
follow the lure from rod tip to target. An overhead cast is
less accurate because your eye only sees the lure after it is
well on the way. Practice, practice at home!
Homer circle's newest book is
"Bass Wisdom," containing know-how gleaned from over
a half-century of obsession with bass fishing – including
deadliest lures, seasonal tactics, fly-rodding, trolling,
fishing secrets of the pros, bass intelligence and sounds and
wiles that trigger strikes. For an autographed copy, send $19
to Homer Circle, 1900 S.W. 55th Lane, Ocala, FL 34474.
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Tips#2
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Ways & Means
The single-spin class
By Michael Jones
BASS Times, March 2003
On average, you don't hear much about
single-spin spinnerbaits, especially those rigged with Colorado-
or Indiana-style blades.
Most of the talk seems centered around willowleaf combinations or
the venerable Colorado/willowleaf setup, a middle-of-the-road
spinnerbait that's become a medium speed jack-of-all-trades.
Like so many artificial lures, the single-spin has always suffered
from its designation as a "situational" lure, a bait
that only sees daylight when all the right factors align in the
cosmos. Remembering to pull it out at the right times is certainly
a start, but why not look for more situations where it can excel?
Most fishermen have heard the phrase "pattern within a
pattern," a reference to the subtle opportunities that exist
within the larger framework of a broad pattern. The very same
logic can be applied to spinnerbait strikes. Finding
"situations within situations" involves nothing more
than being alert to your options and then employing the proper
tool.
For instance, spinnerbait fishermen often have to deal with
changing conditions that produce varying degrees of aggression in
bass and target opportunities that shift with every press of the
trolling motor pedal. On the subject of aggression, short-striking
fish, or ones that merely slap at the lure, may need something
more than a simple change in retrieve speed. At times,
"killing" the lure (stopping it suddenly and then
letting it waft downward seductively) can make all the difference.
And what of shorelines that offer everything from grass to rocks
to docks to floating logs? While burning a willowleaf blade
through the grass and along the edges of cover can be effective in
drawing out active feeders, what about the other opportunities
that exist next to dock pilings or near timber?
Targeting these "situations within the situation" is
clearly where single-spin spinnerbaits come into play. A second
rod rigged and ready to go seems like pure common sense, yet scant
few anglers fish this way.
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